Visiting Scotland's oldest inn, and another that's almost 2500 years older - all in a day's paddle!

The MTKTV (Moderate Terrain Kayak Transport Vehicle)
parked outside the Kenmore Hotel.

My paddling partner has finally returned from Canada, UK visa firmly glued to the inside of her passport. Time in the kayak cockpit was long overdue but the nearest water, the North Sea, is not very hospitable to the narrow boats right now. An hour and forty-five minute drive to Kenmore, and lovely Loch Tay, was in order.

Nestled amidst the mountains of Highland Perthshire, Kenmore is home to the aptly named Kenmore Hotel. Commissioned in 1572, it's Scotland's oldest inn. The area is a hill-walking paradise with seven Munros along a high ridge to the north of the loch. They're on the "to do" list for sure.

More or less unchanged...since 1572!

Understandably, Scotland's national bard, Robert Burns was rather partial to both the hills and this hotel.

Himself, a portrait inside the hotel.

Burns composed a poem in 1787, sitting on the bridge over the River Tay, and wrote it in pencil on the chimney-breast of the Poet's Bar inside the hotel - it's right there to see. Here's part of it...

Th' outstretching lake, imbosomed 'mong the hills,

The eye with wonder and amazement fills;

The Tay meandering sweet in infant pride,

The palace rising on his verdant side;

The lawns wood-fringed in Nature's native taste;

The hillocks dropt in Nature's careless haste,

The arches striding o'er the new-born stream;

The village glittering in the noontide beam.

Launching from the beach at the east end of the loch, the early morning temperatures were just above freezing. A layer of fleece under the dry suits promised a very comfortable paddle on the unusually calm waters.

The P and H Scorpio, a Valley Etain, and two IKEA bags - the complete team.

The skies soon cleared and revealed a low but blazing sun traversing the southern sky. The nearby Munros were covered with an early layer of snow making the landscape a lovely blend of autumn colours and winter white.

It may not be the ocean, but we've found it to be a magical place to paddle at any time of the year.

Off the port bow, a reflection of the Church of Scotland Kenmore Kirk.

Content to be a "drifter".

The Kenmore Hotel is certainly old, but Loch Tay features some re-constructed "lodgings" that are significantly older - possibly by 2500 years!

There are 18 artificially created islands in the loch, called crannogs. It is believed that they date back before 2000 BC. We've paddled by some and it is completely mind-boggling to think that these islands were created, one stone at a time, so very long ago. The crannogs and the dwellings built on them helped to protect the ancient Celts from wild animals...and irritating neighbours!

Re-constructed Iron Age crannog at the Scottish Crannog Centre on Loch Tay.

Paddling a sea kayak on the ocean, a powerful but gentle swell under the hull, is exciting - there's something other-worldly about it. It is, of course, another world for we terrestrial beings. Sometimes, however, it's good to remember that there are less dramatic times and places that afford a contemplative experience. Excitement and the "controlled" flow of adrenaline certainly have their place...but the opportunity to quietly "time travel" into history is pretty sweet too.

Such delightful surprises in life sometimes lay hidden, and patiently await discovery.

The reds and yellows of autumn in Scotland...
and they do rather take the shape of kayaks!

At the proverbial "end of the day", looking into the setting sun, it had clearly been, a very good day.

Paddling partners, good to be together again.

Sea kayaking Loch Tay, Highland Perthshire...highly recommended.